The Surfer

A glimpse of golden light peaks its head on the horizon, revealing a silky silhouette of a man. He stands still staring at the world of water that is being lit up before his eyes.  After a while he trades his warm woollies for a thick slick wetsuit; he seems to not care of his current feeling of unease, for he is fixated on what is before him.

Like a warrior ready for battle, he considers the elements. The sun shall not get in the way of his moment, so he paints his protection on to shield from the harshness of the Australian sun. As he considers this, he considers his companion. He glides his hands and caresses his board, she is smooth, no nicks, no cracks, no imperfections, a companion reliable and steady, one to stand upon.

The sweet sound of wax gliding over fibreglass fills his ears, the noise bringing a feeling of preparation; he is nearly ready to be embraced by the golden rutilant mass of water before him. And with that thought a smile of joy and expectation spreads across his face.

One leap after the other he races down the sand leaving the first footprints of the day. He relishes the feeling of the cold grainy sand wiggling its way through his toes as he races to the waters edge to take the path less travelled.

He touches his toes and reaches to the sky, wipes the sleep out of his eyes and straps himself to his sturdy navigator and lifesaver. He is ready, for the real adventure has just begun.

The Man wades out knee deep in the icy cold water; temptations to turn around and return to the safety and warmth of his bed plague his thoughts. The momentary thoughts vanish as he keeps his eyes on what is before him. He glides in with smooth speed, belly on top of board, stroke after stroke he paddles into the unknown.

As the lines of white water approach he holds all the more tightly to his board, his board goes under with him and helps him resurface from the water, it never leaves him. Wave after wave, up and down he goes, and then finally… he makes it past the breaking waves into a safe place where he rests a while.

Breath and strength regained he bobs up and down as lumps of water move towards their final destination to the shore. And then, he sees it, the thing he came for, the sacrificed sleep and warmth have all been for this moment.

The Surfer paddles to make sure he is in the right position; the wall of water grows taller as it approaches. Head down, he paddles hard and fast to join the momentum and journey of the wave. Making sure his board is pointing where he wants to go; he swiftly jumps up to his feet, he cannot lose time but trusts his companion will hold him up and so he glides down the sparkling glass wall.

He reaches the bottom of the wall and reads the oceans movements carefully, for his conclusions are crucial. He keeps his eyes ahead of him and points his body and hands where he wants to go. He pulls his body ever so close to the face of the wave as it wedges and changes shape before his eyes, holding on for the ride.

Surrounded but not surpassed, he feels terrified yet excited. He thinks of his choice of emotion; fear or joy! He quickly realises that he is only there for a short time and so he chooses Joy! The moment he does he takes in the view, placing his hands upon the transparent smooth surface of the inmost parts of the wave.

The view grows smaller and smaller, and as it does so does the man crouching low. And then with a loud triumphant growl the turbulent tunnel spits and sends him out flying. Filled with an exhilarating and unexplainable joy, he raises his hands to the heavens as he realises that this… this is what life is like.